Songs, Tunes, Poetry & Art

A number of songs, tunes and poems has been written about Glenshesk, which of course is no surprise, as one of the most beautiful parts of this island. In fact one of the most famous songs from the North of Ireland, “The Ould Lammas Fair”, was written by Glenshesk man John Henry MacAulay, who was brought up in the townland of Clare. After a tragic accident at the Glenshesk Bridge on the way to School, he retrained as a Wood Carver, and eventually moved to Ann Street in Ballycastle, beside the current McListers Shop. A line in the famous song, “There’s a neat little cabin on the slopes of fair Knocklayde” is thought to refer to his home, which was indeed a whitewashed cottage at Clare. The full song is below, plus a few other songs, tunes and poems about Glenshesk, as well as some inspired art. 

Yellow Man and Dulse at The Ould Lammas Fair. Photo - Niall McCaughan
Yellow Man and Dulse at The Ould Lammas Fair
Derelict farm, Clare, Glenshesk, Ballycastle where John Henry was brought up. Photo - Niall McCaughan
Derelict farm, Clare, Glenshesk, Ballycastle where John Henry was brought up. Photo – Niall McCaughan

Ould Lammas Fair

by John Henry MacAulay

At the Ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle long ago

I met a pretty colleen who set me heart a-glow

She was smiling at her daddy buying lambs from Paddy Roe

At the Ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle-O

Sure I seen her home that night

When the moon was shining bright

From the ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle-O

CHORUS

At the ould Lammas Fair boys were you ever there

Were you ever at the Fair In Ballycastle-O?

Did you treat your Mary Ann to some Dulse and Yellow Man

At the ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle-O

In Flander’s fields afar while resting from the War

We drank Bon Sante to the Flemish lassies O

But the scene that haunts my memory is kissing Mary Ann

Her pouting lips all sticky from eating Yellow Man

As we passed the silver Margy and we strolled along the strand

From the ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle-O

Chorus

There’s a neat little cabin on the slopes of fair Knocklayde

It’s lit by love and sunshine where the heather honey’s made

With the bees ever humming and the children’s joyous call

Resounds across the valley as the shadows fall

Sure I take my fiddle down and my Mary smiling there

Brings back a happy mem’ry of the Lammas Fair

Chorus


Sun catches the hills in Glenshesk at Sunset
Sun catches the hills in Glenshesk at Sunset
Wild bluebells in Glenshesk. Photo - Niall McCaughan
Wild bluebells in Glenshesk. Photo – Niall McCaughan

LOVELY GLENSHESK

One fine summer’s evening I was forced to my pen

To write down the praises of the top of the glen,

Where the small birds enchanted in every green tree,

Their songs of love practice to the highest degree.

And they who pass through say farewell with a sigh;

Fresh lakes and spring wells there, they shine calm and clear,

They were born to good fortune, had the luck to dwell here.

In you, sweet Glenshesk, I have dwelt since a boy,

Three miles from the Mairge and three from Armoy;

When Phoebus arises he there throws his beam,

It will grieve me far off for to mention your name.

My forefathers fought at the battle of Orra,

No wonder it grieves me to leave you tomorrow,

I’m leaving the country I love, without blame,

My fortune is nothing, M’Quillan’s my name.

Sam Henry’s Songs of the People, #H544: 5 May 1934. Page 165

Source not given.


IN PRAISE OF THE GLEN

This evening I take my departure

From the lovely place where I was bred,

While my friends and relations flock round me,

Which causes my tears for to shed

When I think I am going to leave them

And never to stand in this place;

No wonder it grieves me to leave them

In the parting you, lovely Glenshesk.

I feel like the Hebrews in bondage

Who murmured at their going away,

And would rather turn back to their burdens

Which oppressed them by night and by day,

But Moses gave to them the promise

Of a land where their souls might find rest;

No wonder it grieves me to leave you

And part with you, lovely Glenshesk.

Farewell to you, Glenshesk sweet waters,

Sweet stream that does gently flow down,

And likewise to sweet Ballycastle,

A place of great fame and renown,

And to Knocklayde, the pride of old Ireland,

By nature a beautiful place;

No wonder it grieves me to leave you

In the parting you, lovely Glenshesk.

My full name it is John M’Cormick,

I have penned these few verses in rhyme,

And I hope that we’ll all meet in glory,

In happiness ever to shine.

I hope that we all meet in glory.

Too much of your time I did waste,

So give me your blessing this evening,

And a long, long farewell to Glenshesk.

Sam Henry’s Songs of the People, #H547: 26 May 1934. Page 195-196.

Source: not given

Stream below the high Road, Glenshesk, Ballycastle. Photo - Niall McCaughan
Glenshesk Bridge,Aug08. Photo - Niall McCaughan
Glenshesk Bridge, August 2008. Photo – Niall McCaughan
The Fiddler of Glenshesk. Photo & Permission from Coleraine Museum

Finn McCoul and The Dog Bran:

By James Stoddard Moore

(Dusty Rhodes)


As Finn MacCoul went hunting

One Summer’s afternoon

In dark Glenshesk’s deep valley,

Beneath the silvery moon,

His good dog Bran before the rest

Fast on the red deer came,

The bravest dog that ever ran,

A hound of ancient fame.

He soon overtook the flying deer,

And pulled the quarry down,

Slaying another of the herd,

To add to his renown,

Returning to his master,

He soon appeared in view,

His gory jaws were open wide,

From which the foam flecks flew.

Now, Finn MacCoul was sore afraid,

When thus the dog he saw

Fast bounding to his master’s side,

Blood dripping from it’s jaw.

He placed an arrow in the bow,

And fast the string he drew,

And by a true and well-aimed shaft

His faithful hound he slew

Now Finn was wild because he slew

His faithful greyhound so,

Through when the dog appeared in view

His fate he did not know.

And from that day brave Finn became

A sad and altered man,

Still crying, “A mauvroun, I’ve slain

My faithful servant Bran.”

Dusty Rhodes, Poet
Dusty Rhodes, Poet
Fionn mac Cumhaill, the Rífhéinní, with his hounds Bran and Sceolaing reimagined in a modern sculpture, Ireland ,Íomhá. Narcolepsy 2012
Fionn mac Cumhaill, the Rífhéinní, with his hounds Bran and Sceolaing reimagined in a modern sculpture, Ireland ,Íomhá. Narcolepsy 2012
Sandbank at Doonfin, Glenshesk, Ballycastle, April 2021. Photo - Niall McCaughan
Sandbank at Doonfin, Glenshesk, Ballycastle, April 2021

Glenshesk Chapel


Just come and see our Chapel

Some Sunday if you can

The outside is very nice

But the inside is something grand.


The work was done by Charlie

With Fr John directing all the way

They did a very hefty job

Whilst all we’d got to do was pay


They did each job a couple of times or more

For when it was completed 

They took it down again

To see what way it looked before.


Some people don’t like our stained glass windows

They spoil the view they say

But we don’t go to mass to look around

We go to mass to pray


Joe McCaughan, The Hollow, Glenshesk, 1959

Joe McCaughan from The Hollow, Glenshesk, holding a scythe, 1970's
Joe McCaughan, The Hollow, Glenshesk
The Buachalan Bwee by Florence Wilson, from The Nine Glens, Maureen Donnelly 1974

Our Garden

Our garden was a wilderness

nearly thirty years ago,

backbreaking work to clear it

using shovel, spade and hoe.


We were so much younger then

but still it took some time,

to dig the garden over

and dress it all the time.


Surrounded by a lovely hedge

with clematis in between,

patches of heather above the lawn

showing every shade of purple, white and green;


hollyhocks are splendid,

delphinium pink and blue,

and lilies growing everywhere

of every height and hue;


buddleia for the butterfly,

lupins for the bee,

standing stately on the lawn

a beautiful monkey-puzzle tree.


Heavenly scent of lavender

when day has just begun,

the happy faces of pansies

laughing in the sun;


tomatoes in the greenhouse,

gladiolas standing tall,

trying to outdo the agapanthus,

my favourite flower of all.


Now we have retired

with our garden full of flowers,

we don’t regret one moment

of those rewarding hours;


after all the years of effort

what a happy place to be,

sitting together in the gazebo

enjoying a cup of tea.


 Betty McCaughan, Uaigh, Glenshesk


Betty McCaughan in her garden, Uaigh, Glenshesk
Betty McCaughan in her garden, Uaigh, Glenshesk
The Glenshesk Exile by Brigid Winter, from He Kissed Me at the Causeway, 1996
The Glenshesk Exile by Brigid Winter, from He Kissed Me at the Causeway, 1996
Leo Brown from Greenan's Glenshesk, on the accordion at O'Connor's Bar, Ballycastle

Leo Brown – Musician

Leo Brown from Greenans, Glenshesk, Ballycastle, was one of the best-known and gifted traditional musicians in North Antrim. Leo was a Inspector with the Ministry of Agriculture. He was also a well-known and loved musician, and played regularly across the Glens, He was also a prolific composer and arranger in the traditional style. His gift for adapting similar melodic motifs to different rhythms is well demonstrated in his own tunes which appeared on various albums, and also had the versatility to be able to play in a group and as a soloist.

This link gives you an idea of some of his work. https://thesession.org/recordings/1050 

On a separate note, Leo was known during the 70’s and 80’s for driving a Volkswagen Beetle which was an unusual vehicle in the Glens at that time. When taking his own children to the bus stop at the end of the “Inlet” in Glenshesk, he often offered a lift to other children which was a real treat, not to mention a possible world record for the number of people able to squeeze into a Beetle! 


Other Fiddle Players in Glenshesk

Willie Weir

Willie stayed at Tenaghs, Glenshesk, where he died unmarried. Willie was a fiddler and a singer, who could imitate bird song.

He was also a good actor who acted in a number of local productions.

Randal McDonnell

Randal was a brother of Jamie McDonnell the contractor. He used to perform at dances held in Greenans School, Glenshesk.

He played the pipes, melodeon, fiddle and mouth organ.


Information courtesy of “Fiddle Players from North Antrim”, by Dick Glasgow

The broken fiddle!

Derelict farmsted, Duncarbit Mountain

Kevin Francis McCaughan of Duncarbit tells a story that he heard from his grandmother of a famous ceilidh that took place at a remote farm (pictured) in Drumacullin along the side of Duncarbit Mountain, around the 1870’s. This particular farm is miles from any other farmstead in the glen and really is quite a trek to get too. One night the family who lived here organised a ceile, which were commonplace throughout the glens then. Apart from the neighbour’s who were invited, a local fiddler was booked. On the night in question all travelled up the mountain to the event on a very dark winter night, with not a light in miles to guide their way. When the evening’s craic was finished, the fiddlers and guests slowly made their way home. However as the fiddler made his way over the mountain and through the bogs, he stumbled and ended up standing on his precious fiddle! Sadly, that was the end of it, and no doubt he had to seek out a replacement from one of the local fiddle makers in the glens.

Cross & Passion Convent Ballad and School Song, from1940’s
Cross & Passion College Ballad & School Song, Ballycastle
Sam McLarnon painting a picture of the Glenshesk Chapel, 1980's

The Glen on canvas

As well as poetry and song, the beauty of Glenshesk has been captured over the decades by many artists. Here we have a nice picture of artist Sam McLarnon, painting the Glen Church in the 1980’s.Sam was born in 1924 in Larne, and in his adult life painted nearly every day up until his death in 2012, aged 89. He loved the North Antrim coast, particularly Fair Head which was a favourite subject. This fine painting of the Glen Church (Church of the Immaculate Conception), looks better than the actual church on the day it was painted! Photo – Brian McCaughan


Glenshesk Church by Sam McLarnon, 1980's.
Glenshesk Church by Sam McLarnon, 1980’s.
Jack's Lane, Glenshesk by Brian McCaughan, 1980's
Jack’s Lane, Glenshesk by Brian McCaughan, 1980’s
Glenshesk by Niall McLaughlin, December 2021
Glenshesk by Niall McLaughlin, December 2021